We Speak in Colors Digital Journal / For the culturally curious

Over the past year, I’ve been sending out this “Digital Journal” once a month.

I’ll usually focus on one topic—like music, culture, or mindset—and then once a quarter do a photo recap. In these recaps I choose a handful of photos from the previous 3 months to archive and comment on. 

After doing a few of them, I found myself really enjoying the process of looking back and documenting the season. 

So, I figured why not do them more than once every few months.

With that said, here are a few photos to kick off the year.

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One of the fun things about moving through adulthood is continuing traditions from past lives, while also adding new ones. 

These rituals feel like scheduled opportunities to connect with dimensions we know exist but can’t quite put a finger on. 

A favorite yearly tradition of mine has become the New Year’s Day adventure—a dose of fresh air, movement, and exploration to begin the year. 

In a nod to my time in Japan, I started 2025 with a venture down to the river to catch the hatsuhinode, or first sunrise of the year. A cherished custom in Japanese culture when people seek out a special spot to greet the year’s first light.

East Downtown Detroit / January 1, 2025

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Looking at the edge of the Financial District from Hart Plaza—a striking, open concrete park where Downtown and the river meet.

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Detroit is filled with incredible architecture, and the Fisher Building is a standout.

Anchored in the city’s New Center neighborhood, this iconic Art Deco landmark is a guiding light when cruising through north Detroit.

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That’s it for this one. 

About 8 weeks til spring starts peeking in—hope it’s a good run up til then.

Catch you soon, 

-Andy / We Speak in Colors

WE SPEAK IN COLORS DIGITAL JOURNAL 

Storytelling and photography for the culturally curious

With the fourth quarter of 2024 coming to a close, here are 12 photos to walk you through this past October, November, and December.

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1. One of the highlights of Somerset County is its access to superb outdoors recreation. 

And one of my favorite places to take advantage of this is in Laurel Hill State Park via the iconic Pumphouse Trail.

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2. View from Downtown Pittsburgh across the Monongahela River to the edge Station Square.

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3. There’s some spectacular views, architecture, and history to discover in Pittsburgh’s Hill District, especially if you’re interested in the booming jazz scene (and adjacent ecosystem) of the 1930’s-50’s. 

Hotel Terrace Hall is one of the spots in this network of businesses I would’ve loved to have gotten to experience in its heyday.

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4. A view from Schenley Oval, one of my go-to spots when in Pittsburgh. 

The massive urban green space tucked in the back part of Oakland is a true treasure of the city.

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5. Italy has the caffè, Japan the kissaten, and America the diner. 

When on the move, either traveling or just out and about for the day, these spaces are invaluable when you need a place to reset and scheme.

They’re also great for getting a feel of the community.

Eat’n Park is a family restaurant/diner chain born in Pittsburgh with locations mainly in Southwestern PA. Growing up with one only a few minutes away, it’s near and dear.

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6. Also minutes from my parents’ home is Somerset Lake, a home base of sorts.

Over the years, it’s been a trusty place to go for a walk or to just sit and have a think.

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7. The classic late-November winter arrival in Southwestern Pennsylvania.

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8. Penn Mac is a Pittsburgh institution.

This Italian and Mediterranean gourmet foods shop sits in the heart of the Strip District, a lively riverside neighborhood filled with food-focused mom-and-pop shops.

As you explore the Strip, you'll come across bakeries, markets, cafes, and diners representing a wide range of cuisines, including Italian, Asian, European, Middle Eastern, and Latin American.

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9. Belle Isle, an iconic 982-acre island, rests in the Detroit River right off the city’s east side.

The beloved landmark features sprawling park spaces, a beautiful conservatory, several beach areas, and excellent views of Detroit and across to Canada.

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10. Astronomical amounts of money have gone into revitalizing Downtown Detroit, transforming it from what many once called a ghost town into a shiny destination.

But the Leland Hotel (now converted apartments) stands as a gritty icon of the city skyline. 

Venture inside its revolving glass doors, up the lobby stairs, and through the eerie foyer, and you’ll find Leland City Club,  a dark, industrial electronic club that feels ripped straight from a dystopian film.

A historic landmark in Detroit’s music history.

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11. Detroit Metro is home to the largest population of people of Arab descent in the US, and one of the most significant in the world, alongside regions in Brazil, Argentina, Canada, and France.

This cultural presence is particularly evident in Hamtramck and Dearborn, two areas I found myself repeatedly drawn back to.

Although I’ll need more time to fully grasp the dynamics and origins of this influence, it was a surreal blast from the past to hear Arabic spoken as the default language in many of the area’s cafes, bakeries, and markets.

The experiences of my five years in Abu Dhabi—particularly my visits to Lebanon and Palestine, and the daily interactions with people from across the Middle East—are forever engrained in my psyche.

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12. Along with cafes and parks, libraries are some of the best places to quickly connect with a new city.

The Detroit Public Library’s Main Branch is no exception.

With its striking architecture both inside and out, particularly the stunning, high-ceilings of the music rooms on the third floor, the library was the perfect spot to rest, get some work done, and roam.

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That’s a wrap on 2024 from the We Speak in Colors world. 

Thank you for the support as my photography/writing/music universe evolves. 

Have a good Christmas and New Year’s, and talk to you in 2025, 

-Andy / We Speak in Colors

A look inside Osaka’s buzzing electronic scene with house music legend Larry Heard 

Like all the best artists, Larry Heard follows his intuition, absorbing and reacting to the sounds around him.

Osaka Meets Memphis

His journey began in Chicago, one of the twin epicenters of underground electronic music alongside Detroit. But unable to remain under the radar in the Windy City, Heard found solace in Memphis—an iconic southern city with an incredibly rich musical history of its own.

This past May, at the height of Japan’s Golden Week festivities, Heard brought his unmistakable touch to Osaka, the country’s alternative haven.

A Hundred Birds: Bridging Cultures

The city is home to a dynamic electronic music community, where international house and techno producers and DJ’s collaborate with local artists both on the stage and in the studio.

One of the driving forces behind this sturdy talent exchange is A Hundred Birds, an Osaka-based production and promotion collective. This electronic ambassador has cultivated an ecosystem that spans oceans, bringing some of America and Europe’s best names to some of Japan’s best rooms, including:

• Noon, Club Daphnia, Muffin, Edenico (Osaka)

• Vent, LIQUIDROOM, Contact (Tokyo)

• Metro (Kyoto)

• Precious Hall (Sapporo)

• OPPA-LA (Enoshima)

Magic at Joule

Heard’s set at Joule, a local staple, reflected his evolution, effortlessly transitioning from smooth acid house into gritty, psychedelic pulses. As always, he stayed connected to the room, organically drawing from and directing its energy.

The night kicked off with Chanaz, a superb young DJ from Kyoto, alongside DJ Ageishi, a local legend, and YAMA, a storied master of the craft who’s known both nationally and overseas.

See more of my favorite moments from the night below:

DJ Ageishi (above)

Chanaz (above)

YAMA (above)

Larry Heard (above)

Special Thanks to A Hundred Birds, Hagi, Larry Heard, Yama, DJ Ageishi, Chanaz, and Joule.

Thank you for reading.

-Andy / We Speak in Colors

9 photos to walk you through this past July, August, and September​​—a bizarre few months but aren’t they all.

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An installation celebrating the whimsical Tanabata festival that happens during Japan’s rainy season. 

Humid, gray, and green—the perfect setting to make a wish and hang it on some bamboo.

Few things are as special as an evening walk along the Kamogawa riverside in Kyoto.

Beautiful view from one of Osaka’s endless towering apartment buildings. 

Took a quick photo pit stop on a nice ride from my apartment in Bentencho to Maishima, a strange and quiet little island on the outskirts of town.

August in Japan feels like a month-long string of celebrations, largely due to Obon, a holiday honoring those who came before. 

Venture through Osaka at night, and you're bound to stumble upon some kind of neighborhood festival, reflecting the country’s remarkably deep sense of tradition and community.

Days before moving back to the US, I took a solo pilgrimage to Tokushima, a laid-back big town/small city just a couple hour ferry ride away. 

Had to be with myself to work a few things out before such a transition.

This trip and place will forever be etched in me.

Summit Diner in Somerset, Pennsylvania, USA. 

My hometown spot for reflecting and scheming over a hot cup of decaf.

A nice scene from a jaunt down to historical Grantsville, Maryland with mom. 

Such a great area, known for its Amish and Mennonite farm stands and markets.

View from the top of Hidden Valley Resort, just outside my hometown. 

Love the memories of skiing there all through elementary school, but my body just isn’t built for the biting cold. 

Still love being in the snowy mountains though, as long as I’m sheltered in the lodge with a hot drink.

A cross somewhere between Latrobe and Greensburg in Pennsylvania. 

I’m always drawn to shooting iconography that makes a place itself—especially anything religious or spiritual.

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Alright, hope you enjoyed. 

Time to shift into mental prep phase for the upcoming cold, and get the 2025 game plan going. How’s it happen so fast. 

Talk soon, 

-Andy

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Spanning North America, South Africa, Sweden, and Japan, here are 6 standout tracks of the year so far.

1. “My Hands in the Water” by Amanda Bergman

Bergman and her band take their time in this trancey, indie-pop composition, slowly building a beautiful and psychedelic landscape, much like the Swedish countryside where they reside.

And then the chorus hits—one of those once-in-a-lifetime cosmic hooks that every songwriter hopes to tap into. But for Amanda Bergman, it’s second nature. 

In a track full of treasures, it's the calm and easy demeanor radiating from Bergman that shines.

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2. “Criminal” by TAEMIN

With 'Criminal', Seoul-based pop sensation TAEMIN delivers a slick electronic anthem.

The journey starts with whisper-like vocals overtop a subtle pulse, and evolves into a full-on dance frenzy. 

This dark-pop smash makes it obvious why TAEMIN is a star to even the brightest of the K-Pop stars.

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3. “When U Saw Love” by ELIO

Highlighted by an irresistible chorus and a propulsive, bouncy groove, this entrancing electro-pop track perfectly complements ELIO’s introspective, laid-back spirit.

While she keeps much of her personal life under wraps, including her early years in Wales and eventual move to Canada, ELIO’s sound and talent are an undeniable force.

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4. “ファッションディレイ (Fashion Delay)” by Sakusen 53

Sakusen 53 is a leading force in Osaka, Japan’s flourishing left-field/hyper-pop scene. 

Unrelentingly committed to her craft, the artist consistently delivers thrilling, pop-infused electronic arrangements that are at once tender, aggressive, and trancey.

‘Fashion Delay’ is a whimsical swirl of meditative, mantra-like verses, erratic drums, pulsing bass, and frantic, sorrowful vocals not to be missed.

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5. “Meant” by Hovvdy

This dreamy, transcendent ballad feels like a cosmic cruise through the heart of the South. 

In “Meant”, Hovvdy beautifully layers acoustic and electronic textures, blending booming bass and whirling synths into an atmospheric anthem.

The verse’s hypnotic melody, contrasted by a big chorus lift, will stop you in your tracks.

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6. “Water” by Tyla

In her mesmerizing Popiano masterpiece, Tyla effortlessly weaves a patchwork of house, soul, pop, and gospel—a multicultural collage that captivates from start to finish.

With this distinctive and infectious energy, the young artist has limitless potential to elevate the spirit of South African music on the global stage.

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From K-Pop to Psychedelia to Popiano, I hope you find something to enjoy here.

-Andy / We Speak in Colors

The last photo journal took us through January, February, and March, and now somehow it’s already time to recap Quarter 2. 

Here are 12 photos to walk you through my April, May, and June of 2024:

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Long roams and bike rides are pillars of my weeks and process. These essential chunks of time give the brain a chance to simultaneously rest, reset, recover, and subconsciously connect dots and generate ideas. These periods of no media input combined with physical movement feel like tapping into a superpower.

Osaka Castle is an icon of the city, and for good reason. The sprawling complex boasts huge park areas, endless nooks, moats, a restored traditional castle, and spectacular views. As a result, it gets overrun during the day. But go early in the morning or later in the evening, and there’s barely a soul in sight. Just you and the other freaks.

Sumiyoshi is a classic Osaka neighborhood. Although it’s just a handful of train stops from the center of town, it feels like going back in time a couple decades. Enjoy a stunning park and shrine duo, as well as a stroll through a timeless shotengai (outdoor, covered, shopping strip).

With an endless sprawl of towering offices and apartments, you can never run out of locations to do some good old-fashioned guerilla shooting in Osaka. This photo is from an afternoon of skyscraper hopping to capture some unique perspectives of the city.

Osakako, the city’s port area, is nestled in an out-of-the-way corner, with highlights including seaside parks and trails, interesting architecture (the Culturarium), and a massive ferris wheel. 

Yama is a revered Osaka DJ who flows between a dizzying spectrum of tribal-infused techno, house, and DnB. She is known for her ability to swiftly read a room, and then direct its energy. A mesmerizing conductor. 

This photo is from her set at Club Joule with Chicago legend Larry Heard this past Golden Week.

A shrine nestled amongst the skyscrapers. 

Treasures are to be found around every corner when on foot or bike in Osaka.

Plopped in the middle of Lake Biwa, one of the region’s most prized possessions,  is the little island of Chikubu. Although no permanent residents inhabit the island, there are a few different ferry options that get you there.

I took the journey earlier this summer to soak up the energy of the power spot’s views, shrines, and temples.

Deep into the Nara countryside is Murou, a splendid and idyllic small town resting on a sweet little river. 

This visit is easily one of my most memorable Japan experiences.

The Nara countryside is packed full of sacred shrines and temples perfect for exploring.

One of these is Murouji: the town of Murou’s stunning, multi-level compound of shrines and temples of all sorts and sizes.

Luckily (and a bit intentionally), the timing of my visit lined up perfectly with the peak of hydrangea season.

This photo features one angle of Murou Art Forest, an overwhelmingly impressive countryside park about a 20-minute trek from Murou town center.  

The site was home to this year’s Prythm music event, which celebrated the summer solstice. The day was capped off by a magical full moon.

A church’s cross lit up in the blue hour magic.

Vantage point: from the crest of the Yodogawa riverside, while looking back over Juso neighborhood.

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Quarter 2 2024 in the books.

Crazy to think that the pumpkins will be out next time I put together one of these quarterly recaps.

Let’s get a good 3-month burst in before Halloween is staring us down.
Thanks a lot for reading and talk soon,

-Andy

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Celebrating two new tracks from Osaka’s mystical messenger

It feels like Sakusen 53 was dropped into our dimension from elsewhere. A mystical messenger sent to deliver the supernatural via song and dance.

Although it’s only a matter of time til the leading alternative music tastemakers come knocking, she’s already adored within Osaka, Japan’s vibrant left-field / electronic / singer-songwriter circles. 

Beloved for her strange and electrifying stage presence, Sakusen 53 performances are at once spastic and subdued. Fantastical and grounded. Grimy and ethereal.

This depth and range is beautifully showcased in the electronic-pop artist’s two dazzling new tracks.

After meeting through staple Osaka noise-duo HYPER GAL, as well as connecting at several shows, Sakusen 53 and I collaborated on a rainy season rooftop photoshoot last June. 

On that day, the air was thick, gray, and sentimental, creating the perfect backdrop to capture portraits of the layered artist.

While this series has remained in the archives over the past year, it now sees the light of day in celebration of her recent 2-track release. 

On the surface “3.141592653589793238462643383” is a noisy, aggressive, and bizarre electronic composition. 

But through the veil of squeals, distortion, and grime, lies a dynamic and seductive pop track.

The song is enthralling from start to finish:

• Beginning with the trance-inducing vocals in the verse

• Then moving into the dirty, hasty electric guitar-led chorus

• Followed by the bridge’s heartfelt vocal delivery 

• And ending with a reserved, dropped out chorus smoothly transitioning into an anthemic burst

The second of the two tracks dives down its own whimsical rabbit hole.

“Fashion Delay” (officially written in Japanese Katakana: ファッションディレイ) is another dynamic display of songwriting and sound production, featuring a magnificent and intense swirl of:

• Meditative mantra-like verses

• Erratic, urgent drums 

• Pulsing, trance-inducing bass

• Frantic and sorrowful-but-spirited vocals

Driven by an overwhelming sense of desperation, the song moves like water- smoothly and intentionally molding itself to the energy of each section.

All of this culminates in a jubilant and raucous final chorus, followed by a brief synth outro that gives the listener a moment to process. 

From this realm or another, wherever Sakusen 53 came from, I’m glad she arrived. 

And with this recent release, it’s even more clear that Sakusen 53 is a star.

-Andy 

Note: Sakusen 53’s official artist name is written using the Japanese Kanji- 作戦53

Your ultimate guide to 3 days in the East Asia cultural treasure

Words and Photos by Andy Armstrong

June 2024

You’re traveling Japan and only have 3 days to work with in Osaka.

No problem- plenty of time to tap into the energy of one of the world’s greatest cities.

And lucky for you, I designed the perfect 72-hour itinerary.

What this guide isn’t:

-A list of famous ramen shops and tourist attractions.

I like a big bowl of noodles and popular landmarks as much as the next person, but those spots can be easily found with some quick research.

What this guide is: 

-A carefully crafted blueprint of an authentic Osaka experience.

From scenic riversides to underground worlds to mystical shrines, you’ll feel the spirit of the city through a spectrum of environments.

So here it is, your ultimate guide to spending 72 hours in the East Asia treasure.

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DAY 1

AFTERNOON

You made it. Feet on Osaka ground. 

Before diving into the magic of the city, reboot with a shower, some body movement, and a quick rest. 

Crucial to any successful travel experience, you’ll notice that recovery will be a common theme in this guide.

Without intentionally getting these moments to restore your energy, you can easily slip into a spiral of excess and poor decisions. 

Conversely, beginning your trip with some balance and sound judgment will begin a snowball in the right direction.

With the travel haze shaken off, embark on a little late-afternoon/early-evening adventure down to Osakako, the city’s laid-back port neighborhood.

Water is a primary element of Osaka’s DNA, so begin your journey seaside.

Utilize the city’s metro system by hopping the Chuo Line down to Osakako Station, and take advantage of the great waterside trails and parks, beautiful views, and towering ferris wheel. 

EVENING

Now that you’ve had a post-travel reset and gotten acquainted with the city, it’s time to visit the local sento and invigorate your spirit. 

Central, local feeling, and traveler-friendly, Tateba is a great public bath and sauna option. If you want something a little more upscale and extensive, check out Solaniwa Onsen right next to Bentencho Station. 

Not only will this hour at the sento change the direction of your trip, but you’ll also experience an incredible cultural ritual.

End the evening off with a magical nighttime visit to a symbol of the city, Osaka Castle.

This popular attraction gets overwhelmingly packed during the day, but at night, you’ll skillfully miss the crazy crowds and get treated to stunning cityscape views in peace. 

What a great first chunk of time in Osaka. You got some rest and fitness in. Then killed 2 birds with 1 stone at the sento by experiencing a cultural institution and reviving your body and mind. Topped off with skyline views under the night sky.

Head home for a good sleep.

Oyasumi (good night).

MORNING

Get out the door at a good time, and experience the city when everything is still quiet. 

Up and into the world, just you, and that fresh morning light and air. 

A big win to start the day.

For the first morning’s excursion, head down to Sumiyoshi, a classic part of the city featuring a beautiful park, magnificent shrine, and classic shotengai (outdoor/covered shopping strip).

This area is a little bit of a jaunt from the center of town, but easily accessible by train. Although Osaka is a massive sprawling metropolis, you’ll find it’s extremely well-connected and easy to get around by train, bike, and on foot. 

After meandering through the park and exploring the shrine, grab a coffee or bite to eat in the shotengai. Enter the shopping street here and head north til something catches your attention.

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DAY 2

AFTERNOON

After a full morning, head back to your place to recharge for the next leg of the day. 

I like to use these pockets to rest, shower, and eat, as well as catch up on messages, and do any research / planning for the day.

This in-between time is crucial. Without it, burnout is inevitable. 

Next, make your way to the iconic Semba Center Building for an afternoon adventure in its underground maze.

This submerged realm is a labyrinth of seemingly endless hallways packed full of cafes, bars, restaurants, and an array of specialty shops.

The building stretches over a handful of blocks, with each block starting a new numbered section. A good option is to enter at section 6 and head down to B2 (two levels below ground).

These underground worlds can be confusing, but it’s well worth the effort.

EVENING

With an eventful evening ahead, this is a good spot to get a little sleep in, or at least some time for your body and mind to recover and process.

Rest time is over. 

You’re hittin the town. 

Venture east to Tsuruhashi for a taste of nightlife in Osaka’s Korea Town, a true gem of the city.

The area can be accessed quite easily by bike or train, though I suggest hopping on the JR Loop Line. This is one of the main elevated lines in the city, so you’ll be treated to stunning cityscape views out the train window on your way. 

Immediately after exiting Tsuruhashi Station, spend some time wandering through the surrounding maze of stalls, shops, restaurants, and bars nestled under the train tracks. 

Then, meander down Hondori Shotengai towards the area's main strip, Miyuki-dori. Use Miyukimori Shrine as your north star, as it sits right at the start of this main avenue of K-Pop-centric cafes, shops, and food stalls.

After exploring a bit, grab a bite to eat at one of the countless Korean BBQ or fried chicken spots. But don’t overdo it. The night’s still young and you don’t wanna be too weighed down. 

Head to the Daikokucho neighborhood for some late-evening music at Edenico, one of Osaka’s alternative music hubs.

The all-in-one cafe, bar, and music space stands out as one of the city’s most special spots. The cozy, dimly-lit lounge is a portal into a mythical experience fueled by a killer sound system, hand-roasted coffee, and the city’s best DJ’s.

The shop is generally open Tuesday-Saturday from 6 PM to late. If there’s a Sunday event, they close on Monday and Tuesday, and open back up on Wednesday. 

Their Instagram is a good place to get info on everything they have going on. 

Here are a few other great options for a late-evening coffee experience:

1. Teranoma: a well-curated electronic music bar in the iconic Misono building. 

2. Exodus: a hippie-spirited, music-centric Thai restaurant/bar/cafe sitting right on the edge of Amemura. Always have a good playlist going.  

3. Jantzen: a classy, retro coffee and tea lounge with a wonderful atmosphere

If you’re looking to continue into the late night hours (10 PM to sunrise), there are plenty of excellent electronic music space options. These include: Muffin, Daphnia, Cauliflower, Noon, Area, Upside Down, and Rake Raka. This is by no means an exhaustive list, just good places to start.

For more band-centric shows, hit the underground mecca, Namba Bears. Or check out indie sanctuary Socore Factory for events across a whole spectrum of genres. 

To grab some fliers promoting the city’s latest events, stop into renowned record shops Newtone and Rootdown. 

MORNING

After letting your hair down a little the night before, get your blood moving the next day with a scenic stroll (or bike ride) along the Tosahori / Okawa River. 

Starting around Higobashi Station, make your way along the river through Nakanoshima, Kitahama, Temmabashi, and eventually Sakuranomiya. 

This quintessential riverside park and trail system boasts stunning views, great architecture, and unique dining options. 

For a quick coffee and snack break, pop into Nakaoka, a timeless retro cafe with good coffee and classic Japanese cafe food. 

Then, continue up the river to Temmabashi, where you can conclude your venture or, depending on your energy levels,  keep curling along until you hit Sakuranomiya.

Either way, a superb morning adventure. 

Afterwards, go back to the accommodation for a refresh.

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DAY 3

AFTERNOON

After a morning on the move, hit the Juso riverside for a more relaxed afternoon at Yodogawa Riverside Park.

Featuring vast, sweeping views of the city-splicing river and downtown city skyline, this classic riverside park is not to be missed. 

You’ll quickly see why it’s a trademark of Osaka’s creative world- often appearing in films, music videos, and fashion photography. 

Once you wrap up your afternoon on the riverside, get in another visit to the sento if there’s time.  

Things are gonna pick up later with a pretty extensive urban hike, so make sure to get some rest.

EVENING

Then, kick off the evening at the Dotonbori River, a staple of the city. After snapping some photos, make your way through the Aiaihashisuji Shotengai (straight down from this bridge).

And at the end of the shotengai, cross straight over the main street.

You’ve just entered Nipponbashi, one of the city’s many great slices.

Cut through the electric neighborhood, following your instincts in and out of alleys and side streets, but ultimately heading south.

3 recommendations in the area: 

A. Togetsuya- a great vintage ephemera shop packed full of magazines, books, maps, manuals, and all sorts of retro relics. A great spot for unique and meaningful gifts.

B. Merry Nice- a killer J-Pop-centric music and accessories shop. Another good place to grab a gift or personal keepsake.  

C. Pollux Theatre- a music venue hosting exclusively kawaii-anime-pop acts. If you’re lucky enough to catch the hub of the underground idol world on a night with a performance, it’s worth paying the door charge, even for just 30-45 minutes.

After tackling Nipponbashi, continue south to the Shinsekai neighborhood, which hosts the iconic Tsutenkaku Tower, a structure built in the 1950’s symbolizing the city’s period of rebirth.

Circle the area, dive down its alleys, and pass through its shotengais. Then, head south once more for the final leg of the evening.

Crossing over the main road at the bottom edge of Shinsekai, you’ll enter into the Taishi area of the Nishinari district. 

As you move through the strip of boisterous karaoke bars and cheap food stalls, you’ll feel an exciting shift in energy.

From the Dotonbori River down through Nipponbashi, into Shinsekai, and deeper into Nishinari. 

Electric and neon. 

What a night. 

MORNING

Ohayo gozaimas (good morning). 

Your time in Osaka is coming to a close, so let’s keep this last bit low-key. 

Take a leisurely stroll through Karahori Shotengai in the Tanimachi 6 neighborhood. 

This vintage and thriving outdoor shopping strip hosts a plethora of high-quality shops where you can get:

-a nice plate of curry 

-handmade cup of coffee

-traditional, delicious sweets

-a great bowl of noodles

And just like that, your 72 hours in Osaka is over.

Time to pack up and get moving to the airport or train station. 

But no need to fret, because you just had a killer 3 days in one of the best cities in the world. 

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Do you live in Osaka and have someone visiting? 

Or keep getting requests for recommendations in the city?

Use this itinerary and be a hero.

Thanks for reading,

-Andy 

P.S. Here’s a bonus recommendation for a great day trip out of the city:

Lake Biwa.

A true treasure of the region. 

A vast, magical body of water, offering stunning views, diverse beaches, parks, shrines, and a plethora of excursion options, from ferry rides to cable cars to hikes.

Plus it’s easy to get to- just an hour and 15 minutes from Osaka’s hub stations in Umeda or Kyobashi.

Suggestions:

-Make your way to Cable Sakamoto Station and ride the Hiezan-Sakamoto Cable Car up to Cable Enryakuji Station for a beautiful view. Continue with some hiking, or head back down to the lakeside. 

-Move further up the lake on the elevated train line to Makino Station. Rent a bike or walk out to the Kaizu Osaki lookout point at the tip of the peninsula. 

Lake Biwa won’t disappoint.

usING the muse and digital systems to craft a song

Words by Andy Armstrong

Video by Boris Holmes

Photos by Kensei Kataoka

With early spring performances in Osaka and Tokyo in the books, and two shows in Seoul on the horizon, I was locked in. 

Transfixed. 

But knowing that these bursts of tunnel-vision focus move in cycles, I followed my instincts to document the season. 

In the height of spring last May, Boris Holmes, Kensei Kataoka, and I set up shop on the rooftop of the Edenico building, a hub of Osaka’s alternative-electronic web.

And over the course of an afternoon, shot 4 live performance videos, including the unreleased track, “My Mindset”.

Which during this chunk of shows, had been the sets’ opening song.

It was new and exciting. 

A combination I look for when choosing how to dive into a show.   

It’s like a cheat code to forcing yourself into the moment, and into your body.

On a good night, the audience will subconsciously sense your boldness and presence, and feed you energy back in return.

It’s terrifying and thrilling.

Terrifying because, with a newer song especially, the train can come off the tracks at a moment’s notice. 

Thrilling because there’s potential for this risk to pay off, and send a jolt of electricity through the room. 

THE ORIGIN, THE MUSE

“My Mindset” started like most tend to: 

A specific element or or overall spirit of something I’m listening to will spur me to pick up an instrument. 

Kickstarting me into some rhythmic or tonal jumping off point.

This can lead to landing on a resonant chord progression and melody. 

Then, with some direction, I begin carving out more detailed sounds and cadences tied to the melody. 

Throughout this process of playing with notes, I’ll sing whatever comes out naturally. Generally a garbled mix of incoherent gibberish, and random, audible words or phrases.

Often one of these words or phrases will recur, and catch your attention in some way. 

A little gift from the muse, as Steven Pressfield refers to it in the classic War of Art.

In the case of “My Mindset”,  the muse goddesses gave me the phrase, “Baby, I’m back”.

It’s less of a romantic decree, and more of a pep-talk to yourself.

A personal proclamation, as you bounce back from a knockdown. 

A declaration of your return, now stronger than ever. 

This line- “Baby, I’m back”- combined with the melody and tone of the song, felt worth following.

INTO THE ARCHIVE

At this point, when a foundation’s in place, I head to my archive. 

My digital den where all things lyrics are stored.

When a word or phrase grabs my attention, I simply document it in this electronic filing system. 

That way, in moments like this when it’s time to craft lines of lyrics, I have a whole river of ideas and inspiration to go to.

These words or phrases can be found anywhere- in a conversation, movie, book, interview, advertisement, email, magazine. Or they can just appear in your mind, an offering from the subconscious as it connects dots in the background.

I began plucking things out of this database that jumped out in the moment, and felt connected to the phrase, “Baby, I’m Back.”

Here’s some of what I grabbed: 

Shaman

Cincinnatti
New Jersey 

Riverside

Sunbeam

Grape soda

Telenovela

Shimmering 

Year of the rabbit 

MOLDING AND SHAPING

Once I had this bank to work from, it swiftly led to building out individual lines. 

Starting with:

Baby, I'm back / It's my mindset

I escaped from that island 

And from here it was just piecing together the rest, creating an environment for the song to live in.  

This is the best part of the songwriting process for me.

The phase where you get to snap into obsessive tunnel-vision. The brief period marked by a state of hyperfocus, when all your senses over the course of a few days are committed to the task.

In this case, writing lyrics. 

Constructing a world; a fantastical collage that weaves in and out of fiction.

This is certainly not a unique process, but an effective one. Many of my peers and favorite writers use some customized version of this approach. 

Watch and listen to the result below. 

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Full lyrics:

Baby, I'm back / It's my mindset

I escaped from that island 

Why are you still in hiding? / Hold on, do you even like him?

I sent a text to my shaman

From the plane / she never saw it

Do you think you can go stepping onto that same riverside again?

Passing through Cincinnati / an electric, viral sunbeam 

Almost made it back to Jersey

Please pull off / I need to come some sleep

I just want a sip of your grape soda / telenovela  

It's the year of the rabbit and it's trippin me out 

Into the future

Isolate in shimmering sound / I don't know why you bother

Baby, I'm back / It's my mindset

I escaped from that island 

Why are you still in hiding? / Hold on, do you even like him?

“I sent a text to my shaman

From the plane / she never saw it

Do you think you can go stepping onto that same riverside again?”

3 Practical STRATEGIES TO elevate your creatIVE energy

Words and Photos by Andy Armstrong 

May 2024

My brain has mastered jumping through hoops, doing anything it can to convince itself that I’ll get to it tomorrow.

That there’s time. 

A slippery slope leading to ideas being kicked down the road for months, and in many cases, years.

But over the 15 years of creating, I’ve uncovered some tactics to get things rolling. Because sometimes a little momentum is all we need.

So, if you’re in a rut, feeling like you’ve hit a wall and unsure of how to get moving, you’re in the right place. 

These 3 strategies will unlock your creative energy, and propel your work into unexpected territory.

1. BOOK AN ADVENTURE

I like to think of these adventures as creative business trips. 

Sure, they can be fun. But there’s intention behind them, objectives to hit.

These aren’t passive escapades, but instead purposeful missions to uncover solutions and ideas.

We‘re looking for breakthroughs.

These quests can be as simple as:

• a jaunt across town to the library

• visiting a park you’ve been meaning to get to

• hopping a train to an unknown station

• cruising a couple of towns over and turning down some unfamiliar roads

• finding a view of your town from a new perspective 

• hitting a hiking trail early in the morning

The specifics are irrelevant. What matters is your perspective.

On this adventure (your creative business trip) you’re going to be on the hunt for opportunity and inspiration. You’re expecting them to show up. You’re expecting the breakthroughs.

Reality is a mirror, after all.

As Pam Grout says in her sacred book, E-Squared, “We see what we’re looking for.”

So, what are you looking for? Maybe it’s a:

• story

• a photograph

• a serendipitous meeting 

Or maybe it’s just a nudge in the right direction, some clarity, or a new perspective. 

If you’re open and seeking, ideas and inspiration will arrive. 

An adventure can be the spark, the setting for these things to show up.

As spring kicked in recently, I knew it was time to create.

This conviction always arrives as one season fades and another starts. 

Unsure of what to dig my hands into, I had a feeling an adventure would tell me.

And since I was craving some country air, I sprung out of bed early on a Saturday morning, and hopped on the first train out to an iconic mountainside temple.

The goal was simple: to be open and present. To feel, think, observe, appreciate. 

Of course, I was armed with my camera and a bunch of film- an artist must always be prepared with their tools.

As the journey played out, inspiration struck. And before I knew it, I’d ripped through all the rolls I had. 

These photos later revealed themselves as a really cool 3-Part photo-series that I published on my blog, which could easily be repurposed into an exhibition and zine. 

All from a simple adventure to the countryside.

That’s just one example. 

There are endless possibilities of how an adventure can propel you. 

Give it a shot. Schedule in a creative business trip, and see what shows up. You may be surprised.

On to strategy number 2.

2. PURSUE A PROJECT

Books are great. Powerful, even. So are videos, courses, and workshops.

I’ve accumulated a ton of invaluable knowledge from these kinds of resources.

But the real lessons, the true transformative learning and growth, only came when there was something to attach it to.

A project.

You see, the information and insights needed something to stick to. 

When you are building something, skills get ingrained in your bones. 

Projects back us into corners. They force us to face problems and figure them out. 

Til I sat in that driver’s seat at 16 years old, buckled up, and ripped that big, beautiful, forest green Tahoe into gear, I had no clue how to navigate the roads of my small town. Sure I’d watched my parents do it for years and read the coursebook my school provided.

But I needed something to attach this studying to. 

It’s the same with creative endeavors. 

We’ll devour hours of YouTube videos and pour through countless articles. Researching til we’re blue in the face.

But this is usually the point where things come to a halt. We get stuck in the exploration phase and never actually start.

How can you blame us though? Starting is terrifying. And guaranteed to be painful. 

I mean what kind of masochist actually enjoys staring failure straight in the face, risking the embarrassment and disappointment that comes from defeat. 

But there’s no better feeling than working through discomfort and getting to the breakthrough.

So, give yourself a project, a prompt.

Whatever your field of curiosity, the options are endless. 

Mine generally revolve around music and photography, so that’s where I’ll offer some insight.

Projects that have taken my work and confidence to new levels:

• Events- booking/organizing/promoting things like photo exhibitions, music gigs, and pop-ups

• Publishing- writing/executing/producing things like a song, music video, or photo-series

The complexity and scale don’t matter. It’s just about taking the first steps down the path.

Because once you begin building out a project, vision develops. 

And when you have vision, you can actually start breaking things down into little goals. 

Little actions.

And then something miraculous will happen. 

Opportunities will just start showing up.  

Your subconscious will be working for you. It will start connecting everything to this project.  

You’ll sink into a beautiful period of tunnel vision. 

If you decide to do a little pop-up shop and start slinging postcards, your brain will begin connecting everything to that. 

The world will lay ideas at your feet, giving you inspiration for your:

• table set up

• sign design

• layouts of the postcard

• marketing strategies

• collaboration opportunities

• printing

And on, and on. 

And throughout this process of building out your postcard pop-up project, you’ll develop numerous aspects of your craft, including:

• shooting techniques

• design skills

• marketing abilities

• knowledge of paper and printing

• software competency

That’s a lot of bang for your buck. 

So, initiate a project. 

It will be scary, overwhelming, and intimidating. But, wow, will it be worth it.

Ok, moving on to the final third and final strategy...

3. COLLABORATE WITH A HUMAN

Photo of Billie Jean, a jazz artist, on Lake Biwa, Japan

I like my alone time. And a lot of it. 

It’s when my brain gets the space and bandwidth to consider, connect dots, and rest. 

Furthermore, it’s these solo periods where I can sink into deep work, spending 2-3 hours totally dialed in on one task. 

Combine that with consistency, and an output superpower is uncovered. 

With all this praise for solitude, it may feel like a contradiction when I say to put yourself in a room with a person. 

But if you want to elevate and evolve, hear me out. 

Existing in isolation is a path to nowhere. 

While alone time has been a powerful tool for me, it can also be a killer. 

You can get stuck in dark cycles, those treacherous rabbit holes of despair, drowning yourself in cheap dopamine just to avoid yourself. 

I’ve had to learn this over and over. And will continue to learn it over and over. 
All of my biggest leaps have come from long periods of working alone, but only when combined with hits of collaboration. 

Working with someone forces you to step into the role of the person you’re trying to become.

You quickly see where you’re at, a fast track to exposing the holes. 

It’s like sparring. 

(Yes, a Mixed Martial Arts analogy) 

You gotta test yourself.

How sharp are your instincts and reactions? How are you seeing things? 

Collaboration gets you on the mat and answers the questions.

These experiences are pivotal to growth in your craft.

Photo of Billie Jean, a jazz artist, on Lake Biwa, Japan

This is why photo shoot collaborations have been so fruitful for me. 

At first, I was terrified to shoot portraits.

But something in me knew I had to follow this fear. 

As Steven Pressfield expresses in the seminal book, War of Art, 

"Are you paralyzed with fear? That’s a good sign. Fear is good. Like self-doubt, fear is an indicator. Fear tells us what we have to do. Remember our rule of thumb: The more scared we are of a work or calling, the more sure we can be that we have to do it."

So, I just started shooting. 

Artists, models, fashion brands. Anyone I connected with.

I was backed into a corner and forced to figure it out. 

Through these uncomfortable, and at times, embarrassing situations, I learned how to navigate: 

• Unpredictable weather

• Equipment malfunctions

• Strange vibes

• Location limitations

• Wardrobe issues

• And every other problem under the sun

Reps upon reps of pressure situations sharpened my instincts.

So, pursue your curiosities, and find a human to work with. 

It will be painful and weird, but you’ll grow more than you can imagine.

………………………………………

• Book an Adventure

• Pursue a Project

• Collaborate with a Human

3 impactful methods to activate the loop of action into inspiration and back into more action. 

It will be uncomfortable and a little scary. But the pain of regret is much scarier.  

-Andy Armstrong / We Speak in Colors

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Words and Photos by Andy Armstrong

May 2024

Inward and private, Cwondo feels withdrawn into his own little universe.

Yet, his hyperpop world is strangely magnetic, pulling you into its swirl of playfully glum masterpieces.

Last spring at Osaka’s indie sanctuary, Socore Factory, the Tokyo-based songwriter/producer/track maker treated the audience to a beautifully frenetic and emotionally dynamic set.

A startling but endearing shock to the system.

Cwondo’s a hustler.

Any night of the week you can find him crawling around the city, laying down his offerings to the electronic gods.

But this weekend, he left the capital behind and set out on a mini-tour, first stopping in Nagoya, and then Osaka, one of East Asia’s music epicenters.

To document his visit, we met up after soundcheck and circled the neighborhood to capture a set of heartfelt black-and-white film portraits.

With limited time and little control over the location, shoots like this can be daunting.

But also extremely freeing.

You’re forced into working with what you have, relying on senses and intuition.

A cheat code into the flow state.

Following instinct, we found an open entrance and popped up to the top floor of a high-rise apartment building to borrow the view.

It turned out to be a goldmine.

After making the most of the city skyline, we meandered to Amidaike Koen, a classic Japanese park just a block from the venue.

During our venture, I discovered that Cwondo operates out of his humble home studio, where he handles all aspects of song production, including engineering, tracking, and programming, entirely on his own.

It’s astounding, considering the scope of sounds, elements, textures, and emotionality featured in his tracks.

Before long, we had a couple of rolls of film in the can and parted ways to get prepped for showtime.

Like some of my other favorite Japanese artists, specifically Pikomaruko and Sakusen 53, the stage is a catalyst for Cwondo. A temple gate spurring a transformation into extraordinary new versions of himself.

Cwondo’s live performances are dizzying. Shifting from frantic to subdued at a moment’s notice, completely in sync with the music’s energy.

With a superb catalog of releases that includes full-length albums, EP’s, singles, covers, demos, remixes, and live sessions, Cwondo recently added another one to the list:

Cwondo Memo 2020-2024.

A new album of 21 whimsical demo tracks ranging from gently-textured soundscapes to twitchy anthems.

A leftfield ballet, pirouetting through fantastical and wistful collages of synths, guitars, and drum machines.

At the forefront of Japan’s flourishing indie-electronic wave, Cwondo is a gift to the country’s music culture.

Prolific and committed, he transcends.

To dive into Cwondo’s work, here are a few good places to start:

1. “Twwen” from Hernia

2. “Sarasara” from Coloriyo

3. “Kurukuru” from Cwondo Memo 2020-2024

Get ready for a startling, but endearing shock to the system.

-Andy / We Speak in Colors

A collection of highlights from the journey to the iconic temple grounds

Over the past couple weeks, I published a 3-Part photo-series called A Morning in Hasedera.

The images document my mini-pilgrimage to Hasedera Temple in Nara Prefecture, Japan earlier this spring.

To wrap up the series, I conveniently compiled the highlights of each part.

Recap below:

A couple train transfers and an hour and a half southeast of Osaka City, the iconic temple sits on a beautiful mountainside.

Although there’s a sturdy infrastructure of signs and shops catered to visitors making their way to the sacred grounds, you’ll miss the crowds if you set out early enough.

Left: After entering, you can choose between a slew of maze-like pathways. These trails twist and turn, winding you through numerous mountainside shrines and temples, including Hasedera Gojunoto.

Right: Along the journey, you’ll also come across a plethora of sanctified objects, like this statue standing tall in the sunbeams.

Mountain and village view from a tastefully-nestled wooden lookout. 

There’s no shortage of spots like this to catch a beautiful panorama. 

See Part 1 in full here.

---

Part 1 took us through the temple grounds. 

In Part 2, we’ll see some treasures of the surrounding town.

Left: An undisturbed, small-town road not far from the Hasedera Temple compound. 

Right: A classic shrine gate (torii) adorned with a simple but beautiful decoration and flower arrangement. These gates symbolize the transition into a new realm, from the everyday into the fantastical. 

Left: Just outside the grounds, looking over a village tucked in the valley below.

Right: The Yamato River gently splashing between small-town homes. 

Full Part 2 blog here.

---

Parts 1 and 2 took us on a quest through the temple compound and surrounding town, but now it’s time to head back to Osaka City. 

Through the train window, Part 3 reveals the landscape’s slow transformation from rural to metropolitan.

Left: On the first leg of the journey, cruising down the tracks through open fields and small towns.

Right: Inching towards the city. Buildings growing taller, open space dwindling. 

Back in the city limits; countryside long forgotten in the sprawling rooftops and heightened energy.

See full Part 3 set here.

---

Through the temple grounds (Part 1), around the town (Part 2), and back on the train (Part 3). 

A journey to the countryside through the 3-part photo-series, A Morning in Hasedera.

Thanks for joining me on the adventure.

If you like the vibe of this series, there’s a nice set of ready-to-print digital photos in my online shop. A handy pit stop for a birthday or upcoming holiday- can’t go wrong with a unique, heartfelt photo.

Thanks a lot for reading,

-Andy / We Speak in Colors

P.S. I send out a monthly email with pieces just like this. Sign up below to join the crew getting a regular dose of art, culture, and inspiration sent to their inbox every month.

An early Spring journey to one of Japan’s most sacred temples

Parts 1 and 2 of A Morning in Hasedera took us on a quest through the tranquil pathways of Hasedera Temple and the peaceful surrounding town.

We discovered some of the sweet treasures the Japanese countryside offers, but now, in Part 3, it’s time to hop on the train and head back to Osaka City.

---

On the first leg of the journey, cruising down the tracks through open fields and small towns.

Inching towards the city. Buildings growing taller, open space dwindling. 

Back in the city limits; countryside long forgotten in the sprawling rooftops and heightened energy.

---

Through the temple grounds, around the town, and back on the train. 

A journey to the countryside. 

A tranquil 3-part photo-series: A Morning in Hasedera.

Thanks for joining me on the adventure to rural Japan. 

-Andy Armstrong / We Speak in Colors

P.S. I send out a monthly email with stuff just like this. Sign up below for a regular dose of art, culture, and inspiration.

Additionally, there’s a nice set of ready-to-print digital photos from the series up on my Etsy shop. 

Treasures from the surrounding small town

A Morning in Hasedera is a 3-part photo series highlighting my early spring pilgrimage from Osaka City to Hasedera Temple in Nara Prefecture.

Part 1 of the series saw me making my way from the station to the temple gates and winding along the sacred grounds’ pathways.

This second chapter features 6 images highlighting treasures of the quiet mountainside town surrounding the temple.

An undisturbed, small town road not far from the Hasedera Temple compound. 

A mountainside home perched along steps leading up to a neighboring shrine. 

A classic shrine gate (torii) adorned with a simple but beautiful decoration and flower arrangement. These gates symbolize the transition into a new realm, from the everyday into the fantastical. 

Just outside the grounds, looking over a village nestled in the valley below.

The Yamato River gently splashes between small town homes. 

Layers of: empty lot, houses, mountain, sky.

---

Part 1 took us through the temple grounds. Part 2, around the town.

In Part 3, it’s time to begin the journey back to Osaka and witness the slow shift from rural to metropolitan.

If you enjoyed the vibe of these photos and blog, I’ve got two recommendations:

1. Sign up below to join the crew getting the once-a-month email I send out. I keep it concise and interesting.

2. Hit my Etsy Shop for a nice set of ready-to-print digital photos from this series. It’s a handy pit stop if there’s a special birthday or holiday coming up- can’t go wrong with a unique, heartfelt photo.

Thanks a lot for reading and talk soon, 

-Andy Armstrong / We Speak in Colors

A collection of highlights from MY journey to the iconic temple grounds

With spring freshly arrived, I set out to rural Nara to document one of the area’s most sacred treasures: Hasdera Temple.
Experience these mystical Japanese grounds through A Morning in Hasedera, a tranquil 3-part photo series.

---

Two train transfers and an hour and a half later, I arrived at Hasedera station.  

Another 15-minute walk brought me to this charming little bridge that connects right to the main strip of town.

Although it’s dotted with shops capitalizing on foot traffic to the temple gates, you’ll be greeted by desolate streets if you get there early enough.

---

After entering, you can choose between a slew of maze-like pathways. These trails twist and turn, leading you through numerous mountainside shrines and temples, including Hasedera Gojunoto.

---

No shortage of spots to take in the view along the meandering expedition.

---

A clan of mini-statues lined along one of the many trails winding through Hasedera Temple.

---

Mountain and village view from a tastefully-nestled wooden lookout.

---

Standing tall in the sunbeams: a statue holding a baby statue.

---

There you have it, Part 1 of A Morning in Hasedera. 6 photos guiding you through an ancient temple brimming with powerful energy.

The adventure continues next week in Parts 2 and 3.

These final two chapters, featuring more of the town surrounding the temple and the train journey back to Osaka city, will be published Sunday, April 28.

If you enjoyed this and would like to get these kinds of pieces sent right to your email, sign up below for some monthly inspiration.

Thanks for reading and talk soon, 

-Andy

The first few months of the year ripped by, and with the cherry blossoms peaked and on their way out, it’s time to reflect and archive.

Here are 12 photos to walk you through the first part of my year:

After a few years in a row of being gone for the holidays, I went back to Pennsylvania to be with family for Christmas. I was in Somerset most of the trip, but spent New Year’s Eve in Pittsburgh with some good friends. The next day, I bounced around the city to try and bottle up the magic of a quiet, snowy January 1st.

---

After returning back to Japan a few days into the new year, I ventured around on my bike to document these pieces called shimekazari that people hang on their homes and businesses for good luck. I’m instinctively drawn to shooting things like this that give a place its identity.

---

Inspired by the season, I designed up a little astrology print for my fellow Aquarians. The photo featured is from an evening jaunt pretty early in my time here in Osaka. I was, and still am, enamored with the constant treasures that the city offers.

---

In town from Chicago, I couldn’t miss Ratboys and their wonderful hook-filled, folk-infused indie-rock songs.

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It’s my first time living somewhere with a train system, and a robust one at that. I know it won’t last forever, so I’m mindful of the blessing it is. On the elevated lines, looking out at the world, it always feels like being in a movie.

---

I got to see Pikomaruko, one of my favorite Osaka artists, perform again at a legendary local venue called Namba Bears. She crushed the packed room with her one-of-a-kind freakout music.

---

I spend huge chunks of time walking and riding my bike- an all-at-once gateway for exploring, connecting with my body, getting ideas, working through decisions, and blowing off steam. Additionally it’s a vital part of my creative process when working on songs. This track is an example of something that was pieced together this way. Write, move body, edit, move, and repeat.

This is one of the many bridges I often pass over when venturing around the city.

---

Kissatens, or old-school coffee houses, are portals into past decades. These wistful spaces can serve many purposes. A place to organize your thoughts. To rest. To send some overdue messages. Work out song lyrics. Or simply just somewhere to exist outside of your apartment.

---

The Pollux Theatre, a music venue in the iconic Nipponbashi neighborhood, is a gem of Osaka. The live house is dedicated exclusively to kawaii anime-pop artists, a truly bizarre and fascinating genre/subculture of Japan.

---

One of the best things about living in Japan is the access to sentos. Nothing revives your mind, body, and spirit like an hour bouncing between the sauna and cold and hot baths. Here is some golden hour light shining into the locker room.

---

I came across this amazing waterside shrine on the way back home after a Sunday morning venture down to Nagai Park. Always mystical energy awaiting inside the (torii) gates.

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I wanted to welcome spring with a little venture out to the countryside. So, after taking a buddy’s recommendation, I decided on Hasedera, a spectacular cluster of shrines and temples tucked in a rural Nara mountainside.

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There it is.

2024 first quarter in the books.

-Andy

PS. Throw your email in below to get things like this sent directly to your inbox once a month.

Two beautiful photo sets available now til December 31, 2023 on Etsy.

“Merry Christmas from Japan” and “Happy New Year”

The holidays in Japan can be magical.

Many people struggle to get into the spirit here during the holiday season, but luckily my experience has been different.

See, at home in Western Pennsylvania, Christmas, family, and church are intertwined. While I can’t speak for everyone, this isn’t uncommon. 

For many, the season requires some kind of church service and lots bouncing around the family tree.

Cousins from one side, and aunts and uncles from another. And of course, parents and grandparents, and siblings, nieces, and nephews.

Action-packed.

Although each year injects me with more appreciation for family, it feels like the world gives out a collective sigh when things quiet down.

Til it’s time for New Year’s mode.

When if you’re not careful, that ever-ready panic is there to deceitfully pull you into its glow. The shimmer that will leave you standing in a room you don’t want to be in as the clock hits midnight.

But fly across the world and things are flipped.

Christmas in Japan is more of a celebration of friends and romance, with a casually joyful energy that fills cities with end-of-year parties, trees covered with lights, and non-stop events.

Then on December 26th, it’s like Christmas never happened. The lights, decorations, and discount signs are taken down, as things begin to shift towards the pensive.

Of course debauchery continues, but there’s a noticeable change in the air as people begin looking ahead to their New Year’s plans.

Plans that most likely involve traveling to spend a chunk of days with family. This will also be the time that people begin visiting temples and shrines to give gratitude for the year passed and get their fortune (omikuji) for the year ahead.

This change is quite refreshing.

Though I embrace the spiritual side of the season, especially the Christmas Eve candle light service- a beautiful thing to experience- there’s something fun about being a little blissful during Christmas.

And then, less than a week later, avoiding the anxiety of New Year’s by spending it calmly and reflectively. Maybe with a nice long walk or bike ride around midnight and/or in the morning around sunrise.

I’m ready to experience holidays consistently in America again, but I will always cherish the ones I’ve had in Japan.

And I’m thankful to have rolls of film that document them.

The photos featured in these two sets are images from Osaka, Tokyo, Kanazawa, and Yamanaka Onsen over my last two winters in Japan.

They were all shot on 35mm film and developed at local film labs in Osaka city. 

I hope you can feel the spirit of the holidays in Japan through them.

Both are up on Etsy til December 31, 2023.

Watch 4 new live performance videos here. They turned out great.

Shot and edited by Boris Holmes. Spring 2023. Edenico Rooftop, Osaka, Japan.

Heading to Seoul soon to explore and play a couple shows.

1. August 1 at Jebi Dabang

2. August 6 at Strange Fruit

Rainy season skies in Osaka are perfect for shooting on film. Luckily got to take advantage and collaborate recently with Sakusen 53, an incredible Osaka artist and producer, and get some rooftop photos. They turned out sick. Listen to her music here.